It is vital to understand that in printing, in response to a G-Code "goto zero" command, the Z-axis ALWAYS first moves to the physical zero position (as determined by the limit switch) to establish the actual zero starting point--it has to to determine the trolley's actual zero reference. It and then rises to the logical "zero" position if set. Also, the "Home" function will always move the trolley to thee physical zero position regardless of how the logical "Z=0" position may have been set. Continuous printing with a Double Wham, start another print before you start cleaning the first! The Double Wham contains: the magnet pad can detach from the platform if the glue is dissolved by IPA or similar agents (has happened to me). WB Magnetic Base with 3M adhesive resistant to harsh solvents and chemicals like resin, mean green, and isopropyl alcohol

The stepper appears to be a pretty much standard 1.8° per step (200 steps/turn) unit. the lead screw ha a 2 mm pitch, so one step = 1/200th of 2 mm = .01 mm (10 microns); your .2 mm ("{zero" offset) + one .05 mm layer = 0.25 mm = 25 steps If you get that right and the print holds on the flex plate (more on that in a moment), it's a great thing. Thanks to a specially patterned surface, our steel plate has improved adhesion compared to most original platforms, which greatly increases the success rate!

Customer Reviews

The 3DJake Flexible Buildplate System was specially designed for easy removal of the finished parts. I have observed this in two MARS units I have repaired for others. In both the trolley was so tight in the rails that when the stepper motor attempted to raise it it could not, or "missed a step", causing the motor to "cog"² and not actually move one or more steps. When that happens the firmware thinks the Z-axis has moved but it has not; this fouls up the internal count and the firmware now has absolutely no idea of where the build-plate really is. Missing one or two steps may not be immediately audible as is the "grinding" of a complete jam. In both of the printers I repaired the Z-axis trolley was incorrectly adjusted so as to be absurdly tight within the rails, requiring 4 or 5 lbf to be moved. This is a pretty good YouTube video describing proper adjustment of the Z-axis trolley. The fellow calls it "calibration", which of course it is not as nothing is "calibrated" against any standard--it is simply an adjustment.

The home function of the printer does not ensure that the last set zero point is directly approached. Instead it works like this:The instructions about how to level with a piece of paper are kind of garbage, and prone to all sorts of adjustments and error. However, there's an easier way to do this. Loosen the 2 set screws on the build plate to allow it to move freely. Hit the "Home" button to bring the build plate down as low as it'll go, so that the springs are compressed against the LCD screen without the resin tank in place. Square the build plate up so that it's oriented correctly with the LCD screen, and while it is still sitting on the bottom of the tank tighten the set screws on the side. Tighten the screw on the right first, and when that's in as far as it'll go then tighten the front screw. There is a potential conflict between the alignment and calibration procedure you describe, and the printer's fundamental operation. Powerful COB Light Source】XY resolution: 0.035(4098*2560px); The heat sink system works 50% higher heat dissipation efficiency than ordinary sink.