Finish Line Wet Lube Cross Country Lubricant

Product Information

He was heavily involved in the mountain bike boom of the late 1980s as a racer, team manager and race promoter, and that led to writing for Mountain Biking UK magazine shortly after its inception. He got the gig by phoning up the editor and telling him the magazine was rubbish and he could do better. Rather than telling him to get lost, MBUK editor Tym Manley called John’s bluff and the rest is history. Wet Lube is typically recommended for extreme conditions. Formulated with high viscosity synthetic oils, water repelling polymers, and advanced anti-wear additives. Wet Lube is Finish Line's strongest, longest lasting and most water resistant lubricant. Wet Lube goes on wet, and stays wet, to provide maximum drivetrain smoothness, extremely quiet rides, and ultimate rust protection in the harshest of environments. Wax doesn't seem to last as long in Winter as I'd like, but I've gotten used to wiping off and re-waxing my chain after rides (not before) and leaving it to dry overnight. I've not stretched to two-chains per bike, though technically there'd be no real hassle involved. Taking a chain off takes seconds these days, and shaking it clean in a bottle of solvent a few minutes. Ditto dipping it in wax and hanging it. If you’re riding in dry and dusty conditions, then Finish Line dry lube will keep your drive train running smoothly and shifting well every time. The advanced formula means the lube goes on wet and creates a wax-like barrier over your chain links which keeps the dust and grime out. Use WET Lube when you ride hard and long. Proven performance for 100-plus mile rides, muddy off-road conditions, long rainy commutes, and foggy salt-air coastal climates. A heavier, wet-style lubricant that requires a little more attention to drivetrain cleanliness, but delivers the ultimate in lubricity and protection."

Ultimately, Finish Line Wet remains a good bet for riders of all disciplines who are in need of a really stodgy lube that can cope with hell and, indeed, high water. Verdict visionset: How many miles you get out of chain is irrelevent unless you also state oyur maintenance philosophy. If you are running the whole drive train into the ground (or at least cahin and cassette) you probably can get 10,000 miles out of it. No one is gonna be impressed with the shfiting on said drive train after say 3000 miles. Or alternatively you intend to keep your cassette throun many chains, and you can for probably 10 chains if you wear to 100.2% Yep that's just 0.2% of wear. equates to about 5mm of 'stretch'. Over this and you start to shag the cassette. If you are on Ultegra or better then the latter approach is cost effective and always a crisp change to boot. I was a devout R&R gold user and ran a long term test using the stuff according to their instructions which don't mention cleaning – just flooding on and wiping off – versus the same lube with a weekly clean in one of those round brushy things (two different bikes run concurrently). Chain wear measured by steel rule.Argus Tuft: Dissolve a rounded teaspoon of grated paraffin wax in 100ml of shellite (I don't know what it's called over there – Stoddard's Solvent?). Using pliers, carefully pull the nozzle out of a R&R lube bottle and refill using a small funnel. Close enough to free. A small amount of moly or bearing grease – less is more – makes it even better.

I really rate Prolink ProGold if you just want a liquid lube that's clean and good in every condition. However, I've recently been using the Muc Off ceramic dry as I had about a bazillion samples to use up and I have to say I'd really forgotten how good it is both on and off road at this time of year.Thorough cleaning seems more important than choice of chainlube. You can wipe the chain down till you're blue in the face but the damaging grit is on the INSIDE. BehindTheBikesheds replied to StraelGuy: Only a thousand miles, christ what are you riding through dust, dirt, mud, rain with road salt for good measure and not wiping post ride or any cleaning at all? Do you need 6 chains for multiple bikes or do chains not last as long with waxing vs oiling? I'm guessing two chains is a good idea as unlike oil, you can't wax a chain in 30secs before a ride? FINISH LINE Starter Kit 1-2-3 - Grunge Brush w/4 oz Degreaser and 2 oz Dry Lube (On display in Maintenance » Cleaning Products) When it came to cleaning off the first application my chain was remarkably free from grot and filth. You would be forgiven for expecting this from a dry lube, after all that's what they are famous for. What they aren't renowned for is longevity. Getting both from one lube is a real bonus.

fukawitribe replied to r.glancy: I've found Squirt stays on pretty well (for me anyway) even in the wet - very clean, very easy to apply, not so cheap. I've not tried Smoove yet but heard good things about running it, not so much the actual prep and application, probably give it a whirl at some point though. Finish Line is relatively coy composition-wise, describing it as being a blend of high viscosity synthetic oils, water repelling polymers and advanced anti-wear additives. A little goes a very long way. If you use WET Lube for riding off-road or in dry climates, be sure to wipe the excess from parts to minimize the attraction of dirt and grime. Since 1994, when WET Lube was first introduced, it has become the preferred lubricant for many professional on and off-road teams around the world.In general you should always clean your chain thoroughly before lubricating it if you're using conventional lube; lubing a dirty chain will just wash grit into the links where it causes wear.