And there you have it. Add any further small details you may want, but they’re all ready to go slay the enemies of the Emperor. The first round of base coats are for the skin, and this is pretty much what you can see. I used Carroburg on the more evidently Tyranid hybrids and then various flesh contrasts for the more human range skin tones.

Start highlighting the majority of the armour in Citadel Mournfang Brown. This is where the process becomes a bit repetitive and this step is the most time consuming because you’re painting most of the model but being careful about leaving the previous stage showing at the bottom parts of the armour panel. Step 3: Stipple Citadel Ushabti Bone over Zandri Dust bands. I did slightly less of these than in the previous Zandri Dust layer.Optional) Paint the armor with Satin Varnish to give it a nice sheen (pure gloss varnish is too shiny)! Edge Highlight the pink with Citadel Fulgrim Pink, edge highlight the blue with Citadel Blue Horror. I hit the scales and the top of the banner in places with Runefang Steel so that when I paint the scales and fur with Contrast Shyish Purple there is a nice metallic sheen. I also hit the crab claw as well.

Cover all but the deepest recesses in Rhinox Hide / Vallejo Burnt Umber (whichever you have to hand). Again, I do this with an airbrush for time’s sake but you can do this with a brush quite easily. The saturation is better on the skin and some of the cloth at this stage. I just did more of the same from previous steps trying to darken the darkest areas and brighten the highlights. I also added a little red/Pink Horror on joints (knees, ankles, etc.) to create a more realistic look. A mix of Dark Blue Grey and Turquoise was used to highlight the edges and raised areas on the end of the sword.Once you have the glaze mixed, use a small brush to put just a little bit of the paint on the tip. Since the paint is so wet with thinner, if there’s too much paint on the brush it will run and we wont have the kind of control we want. Use your nail, the base of the model, or the pallet to test it a bit to make sure you have good control over the paint coming off the brush. Add dots of pure white over the previous steps. This is the bit where suddenly it looks like metal and it’s very satisfying. You really are aiming for small dots (unless it’s a vehicle then you can go for bigger patches. Reds Caracalla has more accents than most custodes, but I’ll go through an abbreviated method for all of them: Highlight the skin with your preferred off-white, I find either VMC Ghost Grey or Citadel Palid Wych Flesh works well. Build it up over several thin-ass layers so not to lose the unnatural tones we built up. Soft-drybrushing can work well here as well.

For my Drukhari, I wanted to make clear that these are three separate subfactions who cooperate, and that they aren’t really a single army. To that end, I chose some color schemes that stand out next to one another, but have a coherent threat that joins them together. For the main “green” I started off by airbrushing the whole model with P3 Gnarls Green. I really like P3 paints through an airbrush, they have very dense pigment counts which means you can thin them without losing any real opacity. I then highlighted quite heavily with P3 Iosan Green (aiming for everywhere that wasn’t recessed). Then I used Necrotite Green on the sharp points, the edges and the raised bumps of the models. Lastly I mixed Necrotite Green 50/50 with GW Flash Gitz Yellow and did a very sparing last highlight with that mix. Credit: Silks Repeat step 3 but with Citadel XV -88 highlighting less of the armour. You want your highlights to be hitting the raised parts and points of interest. Purity seals in Waagh Flesh, Warboss Green, and Skarsnik Green on the wax, with the parchment being Rakarth Flesh and then Ushabti BonePainting Biel-Tan well means not only mastering painting white, but also being able to freehand the thorny vines that wind over their armor. It’s a daunting paint job particularly for new players, but the results can look spectacular. Silks’ Method Credit: Silks I really just did a basecoat then wash then highlight with colors mixed with white for the most part. My stuff is mostly tabletop quality and I think this’ll be good enough for that. Fowler’s Method Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html

I do not remember the exact colors or ratios I used to render my sweet daughter on canvas. Looks like there was some grey, purple, yellow, red, and white. Feel free to attempt to paint my lovely companion animal yourself, and share with us the result. Pet love extends beyond the bounds of Games Workshop. Knight Models get in on the action in a whole bunch of ways, from Harley’s hyenas to the giant goddamn demon that Damien Wayne drags around. But none more majestic then the owls that the Court of Owls deploy. Owl. Credit: Lupe The Master of Mankind by Aaron Dembski-Bowden takes place during the Horus Heresy and gives you insight into the Emperor himself (and his finest creations). Grashrak’s Sewers: Straight out of the pot and over white, it makes a gorgeous walnut brown. Yet applied in metallic recesses it makes for a nice grimey oil streaked look as well. I could also see it being sponged on Nurgle forces for a disgusting sludge splatter (two words that should never be used together).

Daniel “Skails” Rodenberg

Based on color theory and the concept of making a complementary color palette, it was decided to list these particular paints. Ushabti Bone and Fire Dragon Bright are analogous to orange and yellow, respectively. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, Highlight almost the entire jewel with Ahriman Blue (leave some of the previous layer showing at the edges). Fire Dragon Bright: Fire Dragon Bright is a bright orange color that can be used to create eye-catching highlights on the model. It’s a complementary color to purple on the color wheel, which makes it an excellent choice for creating contrast.