The lens is super sharp, too, especially for a camera that’s nearly 4 decades old. It’s this tiny, nearly perfect 35mm beauty that’s made the L35AF a bit of a collector’s item (though certainly not on the level of the fabled MJU II). Circles and Boxes The price and value of vintage cameras can be a worrying topic, in the last 10 years, prices have risen dramatically due to popularity and scarcity. Hopefully, if knowledge and enthusiasm continue it may help to keep the cameras alive due to more people understanding how to fix them. Only time will tell though. How To Use The L35AF? Then there’s the battery door. Like the on-off button this isn’t stury enough to last for years. I guess I’ll have to Gaffer tape mine soon as it hardly stays closed. The good news is: the L35AF takes standard AA batteries (two of them), that can be had anywhere for cheap. Although the original L35AF was a huge success, the market for cheap point and shoot cameras was exploding and Nikon was pressured to update the model to stay competitive in the market, so in 1985, the L35AF2 was released. In the United States, this camera was marketed as the Nikon One Touch. It featured a few upgrades, but lost a few things as well. Loading film into the AF3 is simpler than ever. You simply pull the leader to the red line, close the door, and the camera does the rest. Both models have a self timer, the ability to pre-focus on an object not in the center of the viewfinder, and a flash override, all three of which are more eloquently executed on the Nikon.

Nikon L35 – vượt kỳ vọng cho chiếc compact film giá rẻ Review Nikon L35 – vượt kỳ vọng cho chiếc compact film giá rẻ

and vice-versa: you can force the L35AF into flash mode by covering the meter with your hand and half-pressing the shutter. So there is no “flash mode” button, basically – here you see the camera with it’s flash popped up and charged, as the camera decided it’s too dark – but if you do not “agree”, you do actually go to “flash off” mode by pushing the flash itself down! But really great cameras have a distinctive look and feel that’s true to the scene, but also somehow enhances it. Leica is famous for this (Google “Leica look”), and it’s why I use their cameras almost exclusively for my digital work (and pay accordingly for them). The self timer switch is top left of the front of the camera when looking at it. Switch it, press the button, wait a few seconds and it takes the photo… It’s a self timer, what more can you need from such a thing? Actually I think I have an old carcass of a L35AF somewhere, if I find it I can send you the battery cover for the one you built up!It does has a fair amount of 80’s charm to the design. though. It is perhaps a little more conservative than the Ricoh ff90 for example – though I guess it wasn’t until the post transformers late 80’s that industrial design got quite as hard and as angular. Of course, like many 80’s cameras it has the standard flash of red that made everything in the 1980’s look cool. I personally really like the way it looks, to me, perhaps because of when I was born, this camera is what I think cameras should look like – a little like the Ford Escort mkiii looks like what cars should look like to me. Handling

Canon AF35M vs Nikon L35AF - Camera Review - Casual Photophile Canon AF35M vs Nikon L35AF - Camera Review - Casual Photophile

After using a few cameras of this type for a while (namely the Yashicas T3 & T4, a Pentax Espio Mini, the Olympus Mju-II, and the (manual focus) XA) I now primarily use the Nikon – and I guess the reason for this is 50% due to image quality / the way the lens renders, and 50% due to the camera’s features, and the “I do want to take this and go shoot with it – factor” – which will be elaborated in this review. The L35AF does this, too, but at a fraction of the price. The best way I can describe its look is a razor, surgical sharpness, especially at the center, with a bit of a boost to contrast, and just a tiny hint of vignetting when shot wide open. The lens is the best part of this camera. It’s very sharp in the center and can resolve a lot of detail when the aperture is stopped down in bright light or with flash.While in some ways the AF35M shows its age compared to Nikon’s L35AF, in other ways it’s the superior camera. So which camera is best for today’s retro-loving photophile? The flash — powered by the same AA batteries — is quite good. I found it to be powerful enough for most of my shots. But mainly, I liked how easy it was to get out of the way. Nikon’s lens is fast enough not to need flash for most of the day-lit scenes, even if the camera suggests using the flash in a form of it popping up. Pushing it down to its place is all that’s needed to inform the camera that you don’t need one. This is vastly better than going through settings each time as is the case with most ‘90s point-and-shoot film cameras. This may sound daft, but in practice this works really well – and one huge benefit over most of the other point-and-shoots is: you will never flash people by accident because you forgot to turn it off – you will most definitely notice the Pikaichi’s flash popping up (*TSCHAKKK!*) Note that I can confidently give (approximate) dimensions in terms of a rectangle because the L35AF is one — confidently and unapologetically. This is definitely a 1980s gadget! There’s none of that 1990s curviness and rounded edges — everything about the camera is a series of little nested squares and circles, from the rangefinger elements to the flash to the lens assembly and the body itself. Similar accuracy characterizes the autoexposure system of the Nikon L35AW. It uses a CdS cell to control exposures from EV6 (f/2.8 at 1/8th of a second) to EV17 (f/17.5 at 1/430th of a second) at ISO 100. In low light, the shutter (which also acts as the aperture) can remain open for approximately two seconds, though it’s important for the photographer to remember to continue holding the shutter release button until the shutter closes. Releasing the shutter release button before the camera has cycled through a long exposure will cancel the exposure and close the shutter prematurely, resulting in an under-exposed shot.