Once restored and dry, I would recommend a wipe over with Methylated Spirits also and then a test area to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved it is ready for which ever oil you choose to protect with, a test area is always recommended first and if you have any further questions I am here to help.

Having recently used Remmers Douglas Fir Oil on my garden furniture, I found it to be an excellent choice for protecting and preserving the wood. It’s an eco-friendly option with the EU Ecolabel award, and that’s important to me as I try to make more sustainable choices in my day-to-day life. Ahandytip before we get started is to keep an eye on the weather forecast as we are going to need a couple of clear days to get the project done properly trust me it’ll be worth it in the end. Application was easy with the long handled brush I bought at the same time. The oil appeared to soak in well, even the second coat and it gave a nice satin like finish. Too early to comment on durability but I intend to apply again before the winter. The great benefit over the wax based product I’ve used for years and which went patchy in exposed areas is that I’ll just be able to apply more oil without stripping it when needed.

Can reduce the visibility of the wood grain due to the pigmented film between the timber and the surface However, specific information about the ease of application and enhanced appearance is not provided for the Manns Premier UV in the given details. Depending on individual needs and preferences, customers may prioritize the UV protection and weather resistance provided by the Manns Premier UV 5L Clear or the comprehensive features of the RONSEAL Ultimate Natural 5L, including its natural look and unique penetrating formula. Thank you for this incredibly helpful article and for your detailed responses. It’s awesome to see a business taking the time to provide customers with such helpful information. If the finish is an oil it should have soaked into the surface of the wood and will naturally wear away over time, it will not peel and flake unless it has been over applied.Oils can not be removed with a stripper, some lift will come from using a pressure washer, but take care not to hold the nozzle too close to the woods surface as this will damage and splinter the wood. Different species of wood will absorb oils at a different rate and in turn the pigment and so you will get the same tone but perhaps with a slight variance in intensity of colour. Test areas will show what colours can be achieved.

Thank you for getting in touch with your question. It is a common question asked for beautiful tropical hard woods such as Ipe, Balua and Iroko. Jatoba is a less common one, however if it is anything like the others it will require a period of weathering. Tropical hardwoods tend to have a naturally high oil content when they are relatively new, these oils will prevent the uptake or adhesion of any product that you try to apply. So a weathering period to allow these oils to naturally disperse is the recommendation.

When to apply decking oils

Protect interior and exterior wooden surfaces with the unrivalled durability of wood varnishes. A great range of clear and coloured formulations. As the wood is Balau there may be a naturally high oil content already and a test area first to ensure the wood will accept further oil is strongly recommended. You could wipe down the surface of the wood with Methylated spirits first as this will encourage the wood to accept more oil. Then two thin coats are all that is required. Resistant to changeable weather conditions, general wear and tear, prevents wood from greying and splitting. The Oil will not restore the natural colours of the wood and if you apply a coloured oil to the silvered wood it will not look as expected. The silvered wood has also changed in composition as it has been impacted by the UV and this will in turn impact on how it takes on any product applied.

When you start adding a little colour, the factor increases, so a light or natural oak for example will bring you up to a 20 – 30 factor and then a dark oak, rosewood, or dark brown will bring you up to a factor 50. This is the best way to maintain the natural colour of the wood over time, but of course if you don’t want to add colour then a clear oil with UV stabalisers will require annual top up. Customer review:"Last used 2 years ago and finish lasted well. Very good product and so simple to apply by brush. Slightly more expensive but would recommend for quality." What would you recommend we do to the floorboards now? Should we treat them with an oil now, before laying vinyl? Or would that be a bad idea? Or is there a basic preservative that we should apply, to ensure that they don’t get damaged by damp or whatever? Or will they be fine, as long as the cabin is well enough put together? I recently used this Furniture Clinic Danish Oil on a vintage table I got from a charity shop, and I was thoroughly impressed with the results. The table had some wear and tear, but after applying the Danish Oil, its natural beauty shone through. The oil’s natural blend of oils and resins penetrated deep into the wood, creating a hard and durable satin finish.

However, it’s worth noting that the finish isn’t entirely clear, as it adds a slight brownish tint to the wood. While it didn’t bother me too much, it’s something to keep in mind if you’re looking for a completely transparent finish. Additionally, it requires fairly frequent reapplication, especially in high traffic areas or when exposed to harsh weather conditions. And there wasn’t much love for the Ronseal Ultimate Protection which in Nigel’s experience only lasted 6 months, and others have said has a tint - a horrible yellow colour. And indeed it’s a fact that the Ronseal clear has a slight pigment in it, which gives it its UV protection It would be one or the other as they are not compatible products. The Oils are designed to soak into the surface of the wood and protect. It gives a natural look and feel to the wood and is easy to apply and maintain over time, by simply re-coating when you feel the wood needs it. A little goes a long way and it is likely that you will only need the 125ml tin of each colour to complete your project, although this is dependent on the size of the sculpture and the condition of the wood, for example if it is particularly dry the uptake of oil will be more. Test areas are vital to ensure you like the colour that will be achieved.