Save time and effort setting up or taking down camp with these Australian designed and made pegs for tents or annexes.

Screw In Pegs for Hard Ground Awning Pitching Kampa Hex Screw In Pegs for Hard Ground Awning Pitching

We’ve all been there – hammering in a dozen or more traditional tent pegs and being utterly exhausted afterwards. Not to mention how it feels when one or two slip out in high winds and you’re off trying to catch your tarp and secure it again. See our demonstration on how our ground anchor stakes compare to hammer-in tent pegs by watching the video below. Sometimes the ‘new way’ is simply better! http://www. caravantalk. co. uk/community/topic/119191-pegging-down-the-awning/?hl=%2Bscrew+%2Bpegs&do=findComment&comment=1400706 We now have a GroundGrabba Junior for lower loads and harder grounds available with great holding power but not to the same degree as our Pro, Pro I and Pro II. Don’t take our word for it, see what RV Daily says

1. Galvanized Steel Screw Peg 2.0

Peggy Peg can even supply long masonry bits to pre-drill holes into ridiculously hard ground. A combo tool can be used to help twist the pegs into the ground should your drill not do the job and there are purpose-designed anchor plates that accommodate up to seven separate pegs for extra ground-hugging force as well as slots to take awning legs.

screw in pegs - Caravan Awnings - Caravan Talk screw in pegs - Caravan Awnings - Caravan Talk

Blue Screw offers two plastic pegs at 310 and 580mm long. They are ideal in sandy environments with exceptional high-hold abilities. Blue Screw suggest its pegs work well in snow, sloppy mud and underwater too, which would be ideal for a boat mooring. The rope hook on top is large enough to attach multiple guy ropes. This product is aimed squarely at sand and soft soil use; forget trying to twist it into hard ground – it simply won’t work. As the Blue Screw is so flexible and long, you need to ensure it’s wound all the way in if pulling it at an angle, but works equally as well if screwed in line with the rope pull instead of at an angle, which could bend or twist the shaft beyond its limits. You might be wondering how to attach your tent or structure ropes to your GroundGrabba – all you need is the HexHook to slip over the top of the GroundGrabba Pro, Pro I or Pro II then simply hook your rope over the end. They’re yellow zinc plated for anti corrosion and come with a lifetime replacement warranty if in the unlikely event they break. You can also use these on coach bolts (but GroundGrabba’s are way better :) The Aldi pegs are very good but you do need to remove the plastic T and open up the holes so the T spins freely. I use 8mm long coach screws and penny washers now. I’ve found the best technique to driving pegs into hard standings if they won’t screw in is to strike them firmly but not too hard and ease them into the substrate rather than trying to get them in with one Thor-like blow. Instead of hammering your tent pegs in the old way, just screw these into and out of the ground in seconds with your rechargeable drill.

Kits containing Ground Dog screw in pegs

The first pull was set to be pulling the peg out of the ground at a 45° angle, replicating use on a tarp, awning or tent – in effect, trying to bend the peg as well as pulling it free from the ground, and that’s a no-no for some of these pegs. Like with anything new, it takes a few goes to learn how to use it. Test it out at home a few times before setting up your camp. Georgie McRae We used Hex Pegs for a marquee at my wedding. They were so easy to use, and kept it very secure in windy conditions. So much easier than trying to use weights or traditional pegs – thank you Hex Pegs! http://www. caravantalk. co. uk/community/topic/117475-bit-of-a-basic-question-but/?hl=%2Bscrew+%2Bpegs&do=findComment&comment=1370899 Being a screw-in design, a hammer is replaced by a 12V drill, although a shifter, spanner, ratchet or a hand brace (like your caravan leg winder) can be used to insert and extract the pegs.

Bunnings Australia

I carry a rechargeable SDS drill with an 8mm masonry bit for the really tough hard standings. Useful to wind the pegs out afterwards and spin the steadies up and down. You’re safety is important to us, so remember to not ‘force’ the peg into the ground – let the drill do most of the work. If you hit an obstruction in the ground, be aware that the stake could stop abruptly and transfer the twisting force into the handle of your drill. That’s why it’s important to use the medium/low torque setting to start with and adjust it accordingly.

How to use a Ground Dog screw in peg:

Or, you could use our new GroundGrabba Junior which has threads that do not protrude out from the shaft making them easier to screw into harder grounds. But be awaare they do not hold the same loads as the Pro series. The video below shows how to stand with your legs slightly apart with the drill handle braced on the inside of your right leg as you penetrate the stake into the ground. This brace method could help reduce injury to your wrist if the stake hits an obstruction and sends the force upwards into the handle, causing the drill and your hand to violently twist – your leg will stop the drill from spinning and twisting your wrist. Depending on the density of the ground and the speed you use to drive the stake into the ground, you will feel the GroundGrabba bite/grip or just spin. If you drill too fast, you may end up boring a hole and the GroundGrabba won’t actually bite into the ground. Go slower and use more downward pressure until you feel the tent stake ‘hold’ the ground.