Games Workshop - Citadel Colour Layer: Calgar Blue (12ml) Paint

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Other Colors: For the rest of the details I used my usual Vallejo Model Color Dark Rust for the leather, Vallejo Model Color Cavalry Brown for the aiguillette across the chest, Vallejo Model Color Buff for the parchment and Vallejo Model Color Magenta for the purity seal wax. No self-respecting Ultramarine would go to war without the proper iconography. My technique is identical to JD’s. However, we have one more step to go! Step 13. Weathering So you want to know how to paint Ultramarines? What can I say that you don’t already know, or can’t look up yourself? Did you fall in love with Games Workshop’s box art? Do you like following the rules, and have no imagination of your own? Then maybe this is the tutorial for you! For the insignia if you haven’t been blessed with the secrets to applying transfers I will outline it for you here. Iyanden Yellow and Nazdreg Yellow were a dream for painters when they first dropped – easy-to-achieve yellows in one coat! Bad Moon Yellow provides an even brighter choice, especially over a White Scar undercoat.

I use yellow often with my heraldry and weapon casings, so if you want to follow my lead I’ll tell you how. Hell, you could even go for a retro-inspired scheme and use this for trim and details in place of gold, it’d probably look lovely. It’s a good idea to paint the whole model with thinned blue to ensure an even coat. Even moreso than with the modern look; going for a clean look is paramount. Always be ready to clean up after the fact. For the blue armor, I went way off the reservation and used a Reaper Master Series Triad called… Ultramarine Blues. Crazy, right? As you can (hopefully) see, the darkest color in the triad has some nice purple tones and overall the triad is quite vibrant and blue. Funnily enough, a few of the colors and techniques here are nearly identical to those in my Primaris scheme. I’ll reproduce them here anyway. Step 1. Basecoat These are all the recipes I use for painting the ‘Mechs of my Long Nights mercenary company. They’re all Citadel paints because my paint library comes from painting 40k minis.Blue without gold is like peanut butter without jelly, and a warm gold will balance the cool blue of the armor nicely. I would advise using two thinned coats of Retributor Armor, as all metallic paints are prone to clumping. We’ll wash the chest aquila and anything with detail like reliquaries or laurels with Reikland Fleshshade. I usually don’t wash the armor trim unless there’s rivets to wash around or an overlapping lip. We’ll then edge highlight it all Liberator Gold, and hit the sharpest corners with Stormhost Silver to get a gleaming gold. I sometimes skip the Liberator Gold step, but the Stormhost Silver step has a lot of impact. I’ll outline two techniques here – one for general red lenses, and one for green lenses whenever you have a lens appearing up against something red, such as the sergeant’s helmet. These will both usually be on eyes, but also any targeters, monocles, or what have you. I paint the eye the base color, then paint progressively brighter half moons towards the inside edge of the eye, then dot the outside, darker edge with a pure white. I love using them as base colours for large armies and glazing over layers on highly detailed miniatures for extra colour saturation. The expansion of the Contrast range with new colours gives hobbyists an amazing opportunity to try different things! Contrast blues are some of the most saturated paints in the range, and Pylar Glacier exists to slot in between Aethermatic Blue and Talassar Blue .

In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at how to paint well, everything, with a look at different methods from different artists. In this article we’re looking at what is perhaps the most famous of space marine chapters and the face of Warhammer 40,000: The Ultramarines.Deciding to paint a mercenary company grew out of a practical need: My kiddo, Lark, and I will be choosing ‘Mechs from the same pool, and having them all painted in the same scheme will get confusing. We’re going to start with a basecoat of Skull White spray, although any white spray primer will do. I then spray with Army Painter Crystal Blue. It has a tendency to rub off; especially on metal models, so you’ll likely want that white layer first. This is also more saturated than the Oldhammer look, but I had some grog in the Oldhammer group on Facebook cuss me out for not drybrushing the bases yellow and using too coarse basing grit. He’s probably dead now. Step 2. Blue Armor The Ultramarines may be the boy scouts of the Adeptus Astartes but they’re far from boring, with lots of unique characters and opportunities for interesting heraldry and special elements like laurel wreaths and cloth. They’re a rewarding faction to paint and play and unique in that regardless of what model you buy, you can always reference the box art for an example of a well painted model. As is becoming standard, Richyp brings us yet another shamefully fast take on our Chapter of choice with great results!

Emma: Gutrippa Flesh is terrific and will save a lot of time when painting Kruleboyz or Gretchin as it gives an excellent base colour and shade that suits these boyz down to the ground. It’s really great for camo cloth too! This step looks like there’s a lot of work involved, there really isn’t but because of the amount of little bits I’ved bundled them into one step. I like that it has a bit of an iconic feel, that it suggests something that’s pretty common in the mercenary life (long nights, be it fighting, traveling to the next job, or waiting for shit to go down), and that it’s a play on words: ‘Mechs can be thought of as “long” knights. These factions are known in the Warhammer 40k universe for their blue armor and machinery, and Calgar Blue is a perfect match to paint these miniatures. This shade of blue is deeper and richer than Lothern Blue, which can create a more striking and vibrant look for the miniatures. Calgar Blue Colour Schemes & Combinations Note that especially at 6mm scale, highlighting every edge may not be desirable, and highlighting things like mid-panel breaks — where the wash is already providing depth and definition — will overwhelm the miniature. I find this random tank photo to be tremendously useful as a guide. My second lance of Long Nights ‘Mechs (January 24, 2023) BasesAuthor’s Note: I do not 100% copy the colors outlined by ‘Eavy Metal, but as you can see from my pictures they are basically a match. Feel free to use either color scheme, and just focus on my tips for applying progressively lighter edge highlights. You’ll notice that in the above picture steps 4-6 are merely described as “edge highlight” which doesn’t convey the differences in each step. Magos Purple and Shyish Purple were lighter Contrast paints, perfect for tinting and glazing . Out of the pot Luxion Purple provides a rich and luxurious layer. Author’s Note: I tend to finish my bases before I begin the model itself, and use a GW painting handle to prevent paint from being rubbed off.